MERA PEAK VIA AMPHU LAPCHA PASS NEPAL
Mera Peak, along with some other peaks in Nepal, is defined by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) as a Trekking Peak. Unfortunately, this has led many to believe that there is no difficulty involved. This is not the case. Anything involving the use of ropes, crampons, climbing gear, climbing skill, snow gullies etc can be difficult, even if it is just for one day.
This expedition combines Mera Peak with a return via the incredible Amphu Lapcha pass. Mera Peak is located at the head of the quiet and remote Hinku valley, an area of the Mount Everest region rarely frequented by trekkers or visitors. This expedition combines Mera Peak with a return via the incredible Amphu Lapcha pass. This is one of the highest and most technical passes
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Mera Climb Itinerary
Day-1: Arrival: Arrive Kathmandu
Day-2: Guided sightseeing around of the Kathmandu valley.
Day-3 Flight: Kathmandu (1,310m) - Lukla (2,840m).We will be taken to the airport for one of the great flights of the Himalaya. If the sky is clear during our flight, we will get our first views of Everest and the region in which we will be climbing. The Twin Otter aircraft will take us to the hillside village of Lukla, which is the start of our trek to Mera. Here we will meet our camp staff and porters. Camp (BLD)
Day-4: Lukla to Chutanga(3450m) Today is a relatively easy trek, through the woodlands above Lukla. A good trail leads through pasture to the edge of a diminishing forest of rhododendron and pine which covers the steep hillsides above Lukla. After 3 hours we reach Chutanga where we will camp for 2 nights at an altitude of 3450m in order to acclimatise.
Day-5: ChutangaToday we take an acclimatisation trek up to around 4000m with views over the Dudh Khosi Valley and across to the Atwra La pass. We return to Chutanga. Camp
Day-6: Zatwra La Crossing (4320m)
Today is a very lengthy steep 1300m ascent to the Zatwra Og then a short traverse to the Zatwra La pass proper. If there is a lot of snow, you will need to make use of crampons to cross. At times there is the risk of avalanches. Once at the pass it is only a short steep descent to Tuli Kharka (which means big pasture. We camp above the Hinku valley. (4320m).
Day-7:Trek to Hinku Valley. Continue to Khote (3600m)We ascend slowly passing through the jungle. We find virtually no human settlement on the trail. This will be one of our longest walking days, mostly downhill. We will traverse several flats and spurs until we gain our first view of Mera Peak. From here we will drop down into the isolated Hinku Valley. Eventually we will drop down into the humid, bamboo forests, before turning north up along the west side of the Hinku River towards Mera Peak. We will slowly ascend to Khote. Camp (BLD)
Day-8:Trek to Thangnak (4350m)Today we will have amazing mountain views as we continue north up the Hinku Valley. The trail gently climbs along the west bank of the Hinku River. Spectacular mountains, such as Kusum Kangari to the west and Mera Peak to the east, will be in view throughout the morning. Throughout the afternoon, we will traverse meadows and hill slopes, dotted with grazing yaks, until we reach the settlement of Tangnak (4,350m, 14,268ft). We are approaching the heart of the high Himalaya. Camp (BLD)
Day-9: A day for acclimatisationWe trek up above camp to around 5,000 metres for views across to the Mera La and return to Tagnag. Camp.
Day-10: A second acclimatisation day at Tagnag.Today is set aside for skills training particularly the techniques required for fixed lines and crevasse rescue. Camp.
Day-11:Trek to Khare (5100m)Today we will climb above 5,000 m (16,400ft) for the first time. Our hike up to Khare (5,100m, 16,728ft) is short, but we will take it slowly, with frequent stops to soak up the incredible surroundings. The trail heads eastward out of Tangnag, along the lateral moraine of the Dig Glacier. We will pause to climb up the moraine for a view of the pristine Sabai Tso glacial lake. A drop in lake level, caused by a recent rupture of the natural dam the held the lake, is clearly visible. We will arrive at Khare in the early afternoon and have lunch. From Khare, the beautiful north face of Mera Peak is in plain view and Mera glacier spills steeply down into the valley. Camp. (BLD)
Day-12: Rest / Exploration Day for acclimatisationRest day for acclimatisation. You can explore around or climb up for a few hours and come back to the Base Camp for the night. (BLD)
Day-13:Trek to Mera La (5400m)Today we will travel a short distance, slowly ascending up onto Mera glacier. The climb is initially steep, but flattens out as we reach the crest of the glacier. We will traverse a long flat on top of the glacier as we make our way to the pass, called Mera La (5,400m, 17,710ft). From here, the views are stunning. Crevasse fields gently stretch out in front of the pass and we are literally enclosed by a ring of jagged peaks and blue-green glaciers. The remaining route up to the summit of Mera Peak is clearly visible. We will have lunch at Mera La and spend the afternoon relaxing and staying warm. Camp (BLD)
Day-14: Rest Day
Day-15: Continue to High Camp (5800m)We have a short, steep climb up to High camp, but we will take it very slowly so that we allow for the altitude gain. At 5,800 m (19,025ft), high camp is nestled behind a large rock outcrop. We will arrive here by lunch and spend the afternoon relaxing and further acclimatizing. We make preparation for the next day to get to the summit. Camp. (BLD)
Day-16: Summit Mera Peak (6,654 m)Today we go to the summit at 21,830 ft from where the views of Pumori (7,161 m) Lhotse (8,516 m), Makalu (8,463 m), Lobuche (6,145 m) Cho Oyu (8,201 m) are spectacular. We will depart high camp before dawn. The climb up to the higher northern summit is straight forward, but will take 6-7 hours. The reward is one of the world's most spectacular mountain views, including Everest and Lhotse just to the north, Cho Oyu to the northwest, and Kanchenjunga and Makalu to the east. We will then make our way down to the Hongu Valley and camp for the night. (BLD)
Day-17: Hongu ValleyToday we head up into the upper yak pastures of this incredibly remote valley. The giant flanks of Chamlang dominate on our left, and the spire of Baruntse comes into view beyond. The terrain is remarkably barren with a wide valley floor. Overnight in camp.
Day-18: Panch Pokhari - 5400m.Today we pass beneath the giant west face of Chamlang we follow the Hongu Khola and finally the Hongu Glacier to the holy site of Panch Pokhri (five lakes). Camp.
Day-19: A rest day.The guides and Sherpas ascend the Amphu Lapcha to establish fixed lines and prepare the pass for tomorrow's crossing. Camp.
Day-20: Amphu Lapcha Crosssing - Chukkung.Today is a long technically difficult day. Starting from the south base of Amphu Lapcha, today is an early morning climb. The climb involves steep sections on rock and ice. It is better to tackle the pass early in the morning when the snow is stable. We use climbing ropes wherever necessary. The last sections of the climb to Amphu Lapcha winds up through snow shelves. On the other side, a steep descent awaits to be endeavored on fixed lines leading down to the moraine. We then continue down the Imja valley on the other side to the small village of Chukkung. Camp
Day-21: Deboche 3710mOur descent down the valley will be long as we ascend and descend over small passes Dingboche to the main Khumbu Valley, through the village of Pangboche to tonights stop at Deboche. Camp (3710m
Day-22: Namche Bazaar (3440m).We then climb up to Tengboche where we stop for a visit to the Monastery and then descend to Pungi Tanga and climb up to Namche Bazaar. Camp (3440m).
Day-23:LuklaOur final days trekking following the Dudh Khosi mostly downhill but with a last climb up to Lukla. We say goodbye to our support crew in traditional style. Overnight basic Lodge.
Day-24:Flight: Lukla (2,840m) - Kathmandu (1,310m).Hotel Overnight (B)
Day-25:Free day in Kathmandu, Hotel
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