CLIMBING ISLAND PEAK NEPAL

Island Peak in Nepal was named by 1952 by Shiptons party and although it was later renamed Imja Tse, many of the locals still refer to it as Island Peak. From base camp, the climb to the summit involves some steep sections, where the use of crampons, Ice-axe and ropes are necessary, and for this reason we use highly experienced guides who know the mountain very well, to guide you to the summit. All the way top high camp it is a trek but once you start to climb above high camp it becomes a long hard climb. he first section entails a steep 400m section that zig zags up a rock and scree paths that requires some scrambling in places. The rock starts to smooth out in appearance and then you get the bottom of the steep ridge up to cramp-on point. We then rope up and start to hike across the glacier. At around 5,900m/ 19,357ft the altitude slows the pace as you arrive to the 100m/ 328ft head wall which you need to climb. From the top of that there are a few ridges all the way to the summit.

The height of Island Peak is 6160m.

Seen from the summit are the mountains of Nuptse (7,879m), Lhotse (8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m) and Lhotse Shar (8,383m), as well as Makalu (8475m) in the east, Baruntse and Ama Dablam in the South. For many, climbing Island Peak marks the beginning of climbing on Himalayas as it enables people to practice climbing with the use of technical equipment.

Overview

Day-1: Arrive Kathmandu

Day-2: Guided Sightseeing in Kathmandu

Day-3: Flight: Kathmandu (1,310m) - Lukla (2,840m). Trek to Phakding (2,610m)

Day-4: Trek Phakding to Namche (3,440m) (5-6 hrs).

Day-5: Acclimitisation at Namche

Day-6: Namche to Tengboche (3,860m)

Day-7: Tengboche to Dingboche (4,410m).

Day-8: Trek to Chhukung (4730m).

Day-9: Island Peak Base Camp Climb(5,087m)

Day-10: Climb Island Peak Summit (6160m)

Day-11: Contingency

Day-12: Contingency

Day-13: Trek to Namche (3,440m) (4 hrs).

Day-14: Namche to Lukla (2,840m) (7 hrs).

Day-15: Flight: Lukla - Kathmandu (1,310m).

Day-16: Free at leisure

Day-17: Depart Kathmandu

Frequent Questions

It is 6160m on Imja Tse or 20,305 ft above sea level.
The shortest duration required is 17, including pre and post tour but extra days can be added on. Here we have combined the climb with a pre-acclimatisation trek to Everest Base.
You need to be in good physical shape and able to sustain extended periods of hard climbing, as the summit climb can be up to 12 hours long. You should start training a good 4-6 months prior to the trip with extended periods of cardio workouts and hill walking. Although you will receive training at the peak on using mountaineering equipment, you should also take a course in basic climbing skills so that you are familiar with the rope work before you arrive.
The routes are not clearly market given that most of the ascent takes place above the snow line. Below the snow many sections are rocky and steep and can be very slippery at times. Some places are more like a scramble. Once above the snow line you will encounter ice and snow and rock.

Before setting out we will provide you with a full equipment list. However there are certain basics for all peaks over 6000m. Plastic boots are essential and should be the double boot (with a soft inner and hard plastic shell), as temperatures can drop to below -20C. If you plan on buying these before you leave then make sure you can wear a double layer sock in them with plenty of room for your toes to move. Otherwise you can rent them in Nepal as they are an expensive item to buy.

Crampons are worn with the plastic boot as either a strap on or clip on depending on the type. You will use these for the majority of the time you spend on the glacier and summit climb. Again, these can be rented.

A climbing harness is the next essential item which you will wear over your trekking pants.

The hike to base camp plus the climb up is roughly 150km return trip, Lukla to Lukla. If you add on Everest base it is about 170km
The climb can be done throughout the year, however, Autumn (Sep - Nov) is often considered to be the best season for hiking in Nepal with a great climate and several festivals. although it is a little colder than Spring, the sunlight hours tend to be much clearer. Spring, (March - May) is the next favourite and also main summit season for Mt Everest. During spring time, the Khumbu valley erupts with beautiful rhododendron flowers.
The mountain was named 'Island Peak' in 1952 due to its striking location rising from the middle of the Chukkung Glacier, like an island on a sea of ice.
Our grade: Trek Grade: 3c (FP)

The government of Nepal has designated the term 'Trekking Peak' to 18 Peaks, which can now be climbed once you have a permit via the Nepal Mountaineering Association. The category was created by the Nepal Mountaineering association as an intermediate stage between hiking and mountaineering. The climbs are of an intermediate level yet despite their names, are certainly not just an extension of a walking trek. Tackling a 'trekking peak' should not be undertaken lightly as they require physical stamina, mental focus and require basic mountain climbing skills. On these treks, you will be trekking and climbing above the snow line using ice axe, crampons, ropes and other climbing equipment. Prior experience though not essential, is certainly an advantage. Glacial recession over the last few years has made the climb more technical than in the past and at times, a ladder may be needed to cross the bergschrund/crevasse that can form at the base of the wall. For this reason of the most important elements of your preparation will be mountaineering skills and you should learn competency in abseiling/ repelling using a figure of 8 and practicing moving on fixed lines prior to arrival if you can.

Yes you do. We (Nomadic Adventures) do not allow anyone to climb with us unless they have adequate travel insurance. Adequate, means you must be covered for

1) trekking or hiking - this may sound strange, but many insurance list that as an exclusion.

2) altitude over 6,000 meters. Most travel insurance providers do not include this under their standard option and often limit it to 3500m or less.

3) Sprains strains and physiotherapy - yes, many insurers exclude this, though ironically, this is what you will most likely need cover for.

4) personal accident - this is the horrible part of insurance. Yes, you need to be covered in the case of death. We are often told by clients - "if anything happens to me, just leave me there." It is not that simple. Bodies need to be brought home or laid to rest overseas, and this can run into thousands of dollars, creating a huge burden on family members.

We will assist in helping you provide good cover.

Detailed Itinerary

Day-1: Arrive Kathmandu

Arrival and transfer to Hotel.

Day-2: Guided Sightseeing

Guided sightseeing around Kathmandu valley.

Day-3: Flight: Kathmandu (1,310m) - Lukla (2840m). Trek to Phakding (2,610m).

Our early morning hike begins with a flight into Lukla - is a lifetime experience, in itself. The airfield is on a slope and the difference between the two ends of the runway is about 460 meters! After meeting with guides and porters and a short break for tea we hike away from Lukla towards Imja Tse or Island Peak for a few hours along the Dudh Kosi River to the village of Phakding 2,610m. Once you have trekked through the small village of Ghat (2550m), Phakding is a short walk away.

Day-4: Phakding (2,610m) Namche bazaar (3,440m).

After leaving the village of Phakding the path takes us through a magnificent forest of rhododendron, magnolia trees and giant fir trees alongside the Dhud-Kosi river through small villages like Bekar and Monju. You will crisscross over the river a few times on high suspension bridges until you eventually come to the Sagarmatha Check Point where your permits needs to be checked. The climb then starts with a downhill trek down to the river and then all the way back up again to Namche. The trail heads up through blue pine forests and as you climb there are rhododendron trees which bloom in Spring time. The trail heads up through blue pine forests and as you climb there are rhododendron trees which bloom in Spring time. Namche is the largest Sherpa village and is the unofficial capital of the Khumbu, gateway to the high Himalayas. This relatively small town is a bustling tourist zone and trading hub literally is perched on a sloping hill. It is surrounded on all sides by mountains, from Thamserku to Kongde Ri. Trekkers heading to Mt. Everest, Gokyo, Island Peak and many other destinations for both trekking and expedition, have at least two nights stopover in Namche to acclimitise.

Day-5: Namche bazaar (acclimatisation 3,440 m)

We will spend time here on short treks to acclimatise. Although it says acclimatisation, this means you need to walk for the principle of climb high and sleep low, meaning we gain altitude, then descend again to sleep low, enabling our bodies to better adjust to the altitude before we continue our ascent. A slow and steady pace with adequate time for acclimatisation is key to a successful trek. So today we hike up to Everest View hotel for just that, a view of Mt Everest Peak, assuming the weather is clear.

Day-6: Trek from Namche to Tengboche (3,860m)

With incredible views of the Thamserku we steadily descend to the Imja Khola where we see a series of water driven prayer wheels at the little river spot of Pungi Tanga. After a lunch break we begin the slow long steep climb to the famous Tengboche Monastery (3,860m) - one of the most beautiful places in the world. Apart from natural scenery and mountain views, many festivals take place here, such as Mani Rimdu festival. This festival performed at the monasteries in Tengboche, Chiwang, and Thame. This sacred ceremonies held for nineteen days; culminating in a 3-day public festival. Lamas and monks dress in colorful attire with elaborate masks and dance to the victory of Buddhism over Bon. We will get amazing views of Mt. Ama Dablam, meaning Mother's Charm Box. According to legend, Lama Sange Dorjee, who came from Tibet's Rongbuk Monastery, founded Thyangboche Monastery in the 17th century. Thyangboche was destroyed by an earthquake in 1933, rebuilt and again badly damaged by a fire in 1989. Construction of the present monastery was completed in 1992. We may continue down to Deboche for the night where it is warmer and accommodation options better.

Day-7: Tengboche to Dingboche (4,410m)

Continuing up the Imja Khola valley, we hike to Dingboche (4,410). The route is less steep than on the climb to Namche or Tengboche. The terrain becomes like a tundra of grasses and vast open plains as the Khumbu valley opens up ahead of you. Dingboche village is the highest permanent Sherpa settlement in the region and also lies on the route towards Island Peak. From Dingboche the mountain is seen as an island rising from a sea of ice and alpine desert. Island peak offers an incredible climb as well as some of the most spectacular scenery of Himalayas in the Everest region.

Day-8: Trek to Chhukung (4730m).

From Dingboche, we then head east into the Chhukhung Valley Lhotse. From here you will also have magnificent views of the incredible Amadablam (6856 m.), probably the most photographed mountain in Nepal.

Day-9: Island Peak Base Camp

Today, we climb along the Imja Khola to Island peak base camp, a pleasant site by a small lake with fine views of the Lhotse Glacier and Nuptse-Lhotse wall. You will reach the Base Camp of Imja Tse today. Once camp has been set up you will be free to get your climbing gear in order and get organized for your ascent of the peak tomorrow.

Day-10: Climbing Island Peak Summit to a height of 6160m

You will start early for the summit climb. The going gets difficult once you reach the bottom of the steep icefall below the summit. Great care and caution must be exercised while climbing the wall to emerge on the ridge leading to the summit. After the summit of Island Peak, you will descend back down to Base Camp and Chhukhung.

Day-11::

Contingency

Day-12:

Contingency

Day-13: Trek to Namche (3,440m) (4 hrs).

The trail today will descend quite steeply as we head back down towards Namche.

Day-14: Namche to Lukla (2,840m) (7 hrs).

Trek further to the mountain airstrip at Lukla to catch your return flight to Kathmandu . Weather permitting your crew might prepare a farewell treat for you. You would be expected to join in the singing and the dancing!

Day-15: Flight: Lukla - Kathmandu (1,310m).

Day-16: Free at leisure

Day-17: Depart Kathmandu

End of services

What's Included

Price includes

Airport transfers by private vehicle
Thamel Eco Resort in Kathmandu, twin sharing with breakfast
Kathmandu sightseeing tour, entrance fees, guide, private transportation
TIMS
Flights: Kathmandu to Lukla to Kathmandu
Everest NP entrance fees
Teahouse arrangement (staying in lodges)
Breakfast, lunch and dinner on trek. Meals include coffee or tea but not soft drinks, beer, milo etc
Guide and porter(s) on trek; their wages, insurance and expenses
Island peak permit
Climbing Sherpa guide
Main ropes
Welcome dinner with live Nepali cultural show
Duffel bag


Price Excludes

International flights, departure taxes and any excess baggage charges.
Mandatory travel and medical insurance
Tips, baggage and porterage
Expenses of a personal nature such as bottled drinks, mineral water, morning and afternoon teas etc laundry etc.
Meals while staying at the hotels in Kathmandu (only breakfast is included along with accommodation).
Extra expenses and/of additional time caused due to unexpected events (such a flight delays, porterage because of land slides and other natural events.)
Entry Visa $50
Rescue and evacuation
Climbing gear
Tips and gratuities
Costs incurred for returning to the hotel earlier than expected (From $35 per night)
Single supplements if applicable
Cost for giving up the climb (and any unused portions which are not refundable), additional hotel accommodation in Kathmandu as a result or costs incurred for changing the itinerary, if applicable, extra costs incurred for landslides and delays beyond our control etc.

Video

Route Profile Map

Island Peak Climping Profile Map

Trip Extension Ideas

Trek to Everest Base Camp
Extend your hike before you climb island peak to help acclimitise by climbing to Everest Base Camp first. It only adds on about another three days
Gokyo Lakes Extension
This adds quite a number extra days to your trip but gives you the chance to climb over the Cho La Pass, across the Ngozumpa glacier to the magnificent high water Gokyo Lakes.
Island Peak query


Book your Island Peak Climb
Trekking Peaks in Nepal
Mera Peak is higher than Island Peak but in terms of technical work, easier to climb. However, the trek TO Mera Peak is tougher than the trek to Island Peak.

Mera Peak is the highest trekking peak in Nepal at 6654m.
Mera Peak Itinerary
If you are looking at something tougher than a standard Mera Peak Trek or Island Peak trek then there are two options, one is to do Mera Peak and return via the Mingoba La (Pass) and the other is to combine Mera Peak with a crossing via Amphu Lapcha Pass.

Mera Amphu Lapcha Climb
Island Peak is lower than Mera Peak but in terms of technical work, is more difficult to climb. However, the trek TO Island Peak is easier than tp Mera Peak trek.

Island Peak is 6160m.
Island Peak Climb

Other Treks in Nepal
17 day tour
Trek from Lukla
Altitude of 5495m
A more popular trekking route
Wonderful mix of culture and scenery
Breathtaking views of Everest and surrounding peaks
Same ascent and descent route
Can be combined with Island Peak
Everest BC Itinerary
15 days
Start from Pokhara
Altitude of 4130m
Not as steep at Everest BC trek
Lower average altitude than base camp Everest
Several route options
Choice of base camp or circuit trek
Stunning expansive mountain vistas
Annapurna BC Itinerary
23 day tour
Trek from Lukla
Altitude of 5495m
Less busy than base camp for the first 7 days
Steeper and more challenging passes than Everest Base Camp
Breathtaking Gokyo Lakes
Different approach to Everest base camp
Dramatically contrasting scenery and more of a circuit trek
Everest Gokyo Lakes Trek Itinerary
23 day tour
Start from Pokhara
Altitude of 5360m
Very remote with few permanent settlements
Extended strenuous trek
Challenging mountain passes
Lots of snow and ice sections
Dramatically contrasting scenery
Dhaulagiri Trek Itinerary
10 days
Start from Pokhara
Altitude of 3200m
Treks along a well populated route
Expect steep sections and lots of stairs
Wonderful variation of scenery, forests and mountain views
Trek in part of Annapurna region
Accommodation in lodges
Poon Hill Itinerary
10 days
Trek from Syabru Beshi
Altitude of 3300m
Expect steep sections and long treks
Gives you a great insight into the local cultural of the Tamang people
Wonderful variation of scenery, forests and mountain views
Trek in the Langtang Region
Accommodation in home stays and lodges
Tamang Cultural Trek Itinerary

Other treks nearby
In Tibet there are options such as Mt Kailash, the Kharta Valley Trek or Everest Advanced Base Camp Trek. In Bhutan, there is everything from the Laya Ghasa Trek or Dagala Lakes, to the long and difficult Snowman Trek


Frequently Asked Questions