MERA PEAK VIA AMPHU LAPCHA PASS NEPAL

Mera Peak Amphu Lapcha Pass Climb. Mera Peak is located at the head of the quiet and remote Hinku valley, an area of the Mount Everest region rarely frequented by trekkers or visitors. There are many approaches to Mera Peak; some are 'easier' and some require the crossing of high and difficult passes.

Mera Peak, along with some other peaks in Nepal, is defined by Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) as a Trekking Peak. Unfortunately, this has led many to believe that there is no difficulty involved. This is not the case. Anything involving the use of ropes, crampons, climbing gear, climbing skill, snow gullies etc can cause difficulty, even for just for one day.

Mera Peak is the highest trekking peak in Nepal, and can be climbed by people without any prior technical or mountaineering experience. Most groups can reach the summit and return to base camp in 24 hours, though we can set up a high camp at around 5,800m to make the summit climb shorter.

This expedition combines climbing Mera Peak with a return via the incredible Amphu Lapcha pass. Mera Peak is located at the head of the quiet and remote Hinku valley, an area rarely frequented by trekkers or visitors. This expedition combines This is one of the highest and most technical passes.

Overview


Day-1: Arrival: Kathmandu

Day-2: Guided sightseeing around Kathmandu valley.

Day-3: Flight: Kathmandu (1,310m) - Lukla (2,840m).

Day-4: Lukla to Chutanga

Day-5: Chutanga

Day-6: Zatwra La Crossing (4320m)

Day-7: Trek to Hinku Valley. Continue to Khote (3600m)

Day-8: Trek to Tagnag(4350m)

Day-9: Acclimatisation

Day-10: Acclimatisation at Tagnag.

Day-11: Trek to Khare (5100m)

Day-12: Rest / Exploration for acclimatisation

Day-13: Trek to Mera La (5400m)

Day-14: Acclimatisation

Day-15: Continue to High Camp (5800m)

Day-16: Climb Mera Peak (6,654 m)

Day-17: Hongu Valley

Day-18: Panch Pokhari - 5400m.

Day-19: Acclimatisation

Day-20: Amphu Lapcha Crosssing - Chukkung.

Day-21: Deboche 3710m

Day-22: Namche Bazaar (3440m).

Day-23:Lukla

Day-24:Flight: Lukla (2,840m) - Kathmandu (1,310m).

Day-25: Free at leisure

Day-26: Departure.

Frequent Questions

It is 6160m on Imja Tse or 20,305 ft above sea level.
The shortest duration required is 21, including pre and post tour but extra time can be added on.
To climb Mera Peak you need to be in good physical shape and able to sustain extended periods of hard climbing, as the summit climb can be up to 12 hours long. You should start training a good 4-6 months prior to the trip with extended periods of cardio workouts and hill walking. Although you receive training at the peak on using mountaineering equipment, you should also take a course in basic climbing skills so that you are familiar with the rope work before you arrive.
The routes are not clearly marked given that most of the ascent takes place above the snow line. Below the snow many sections are rocky and steep and can  be very slippery at times. Some places are more like a scramble. Once above the snow line you'll encounter ice and snow and rock.

Before setting out we provide you with a full equipment list. However there are certain basics for all peaks over 6000m.

Plastic boots are essential and should be the double boot (with a soft inner and hard plastic shell), as temperatures can drop to below -20C. If you plan on buying these before you leave then make sure you can wear a double layer sock in them with plenty of room for your toes to move. Otherwise you can rent them in Nepal as they are an expensive item to buy.

Crampons are worn with the plastic boot as either a strap on or clip on depending on the type. You'll use these for the majority of the time you spend on the glacier and summit climb. Again, these can be rented.

A climbing harness is the next essential item to wear over your trekking pants.

The climb to base camp plus the climb up is roughly 135km return trip, Lukla to Lukla. If you add on Everest base it is about 170km
The climb can be done throughout the year, however, Autumn (Sep - Nov) is often considered to be the best season for hiking in Nepal with a great climate and several festivals. although it is a little colder than Spring, the sunlight hours tend to be much clearer. Spring, (March - May) is the next favourite and also main summit season for Mt Everest. During spring time, the Khumbu valley erupts with beautiful  rhododendron flowers.
There are three summits on Mera Peak, It contains three main summits: Mera North, (6,476m), Mera Central (6,461m) and Mera South (6,065m). Mera Central 6461m is just a stone's throw away the true summit, 6476m, yet Mera North, is hardly ever climbed. We climb Mera Central.
Our grade: Trek Grade: 3c (FP)

The government of Nepal has designated the term 'Trekking Peak' to 18 Peaks, which can now be climbed once you have a permit via the Nepal Mountaineering Association. The category was created by the Nepal Mountaineering association as an intermediate stage between hiking and mountaineering. The climbs are of an intermediate level yet despite their names, are certainly not just an extension of a walking trek. Tackling a 'trekking peak' should not be undertaken lightly as they require physical stamina, mental focus and require basic mountain climbing skills. On these treks, you  trek and climb above the snow line using ice axe, crampons, ropes and other climbing equipment. Prior experience though not essential, is certainly an advantage.

Yes you do. We (Nomadic Adventures) do not allow anyone to climb with us unless they have adequate travel insurance. Adequate, means you must be covered for

1) trekking or hiking - this may sound strange, but many insurance list that as an exclusion.

2) altitude over 6,000 meters. Most travel insurance providers do not include this under their standard cover and often limit it to 3500m or less.

3) Sprains strains and physiotherapy - yes, many insurers exclude this, though ironically, this is what you most likely need cover for.

4) personal accident - this is the horrible part of insurance. Yes, you need to be covered in the case of death. We are often told by clients - "if anything happens to me, just leave me there." It is not that simple. Bodies need to be brought home or laid to rest overseas, and this can run into thousands of dollars, creating a huge burden on family members.

We can assist in helping you provide good cover.

Mera Peak Itinerary

Day-1: Arrival: Arrive Kathmandu

Day-2: Guided sightseeing around Kathmandu valley.

Day-3 Flight: Kathmandu (1,310m) - Lukla (2,840m).

We drive  to Kathmandu airport for one of the great flights of the Himalaya. If the sky is clear during our flight, we get our first views of Everest and the region in which we will be climbing. The Twin Otter aircraft takes us to the hillside village of Lukla, which is the start of our trek to Mera. Here we meet our camp staff and porters. Camp 

Day-4: Lukla to Chutanga (3,450m)

Today is a relatively easy trek, through the woodlands above Lukla. A good trail leads through pastures into a forest of rhododendron and pine which covers the steep hillsides above Lukla. After 3 hours we reach Chutanga where we camp for 2 nights at an altitude of 3450m in order to acclimatise.

Day-5: Chutanga

This morning we take an acclimatisation trek up to around 4000m with views over the Dudh Khosi Valley and across to Zatwra La pass. We return to Chutanga. 

Day-6: Zatwra La Crossing (4320m)

We start on a lengthy steep 1300m ascent to Zatwra Og then a short traverse the Zatwra La pass proper. If there is a lot of snow, you will need to make use of crampons to cross. At times there is the risk of avalanches. Once at the pass it is only a short steep descent to Tuli Kharka (which means big pasture. We camp above the Hinku valley. (4320m).

Day-7:Trek to Hinku Valley. Continue to Khote (3600m)

We ascend slowly passing through the jungle. We find virtually no human settlement on the trail. This will be one of our longest treks mostly downhill. We traverse several flats and spurs until we gain our first view of Mera Peak. From here we drop down into the isolated Hinku Valley. Eventually we drop down into humid, bamboo forests, before turning north up along the west side of the Hinku River towards Mera Peak. We slowly ascend to Khote.

Day-8:Trek to Tagnag(4350m)

With amazing mountain views we continue north up the Hinku Valley. The trail gently climbs along the west bank of the Hinku River. Spectacular mountains, such as Kusum Kangari in the west and Mera Peak to the east, will be in view throughout the morning.  Throughout the afternoon, we will traverse meadows and hill slopes, dotted with grazing yaks, until we reach the settlement of Tangnak (4,350m, 14,268ft).  We are approaching the heart of the high Himalaya.

Day-9: Acclimatisation

We trek up above camp to around 5,000 metres for views across to Mera La and return to Tagnag.

Day-10: A second acclimatisation at Tagnag.

This is set aside for skills training particularly the techniques required for fixed lines and crevasse rescue. Camp.

Day-11:Trek to Khare (5100m)

We will climb above 5,000 m (16,400ft) for the first time. Our hike up to Khare (5,100m, 16,728ft) is short, but we will take it slowly, with frequent stops to soak up the incredible surroundings. The trail heads eastward out of Tangnag, along the lateral moraine of the Dig Glacier. We will pause to climb up the moraine for a view of the pristine Sabai Tso glacial lake. A drop in lake level, caused by a recent rupture of the natural dam the held the lake, is clearly visible. We will arrive at Khare in the early afternoon and have lunch. From Khare, the beautiful north face of Mera Peak is in plain view and Mera glacier spills steeply down into the valley.

Day-12: Rest / Exploration for acclimatisation

Rest for acclimatisation. You can explore around or climb up for a few hours and come back to Base Camp for the night. 

Day-13:Trek to Mera La (5400m)

Hike a short distance, slowly ascending up onto Mera glacier. The climb is initially steep, but flattens out as we reach the glaciers crest. We will traverse a long flat on top of the glacier as we make our way to the pass, called Mera La (5,400m, 17,710ft). From here, the views are stunning. Crevasse fields gently stretch and we are literally enclosed by a ring of jagged peaks and blue-green glaciers. The remaining route up to the summit of Mera Peak is clearly visible. We will have lunch at Mera La and spend the afternoon relaxing and staying warm.  

Day-14: Rest

Day-15: Continue to High Camp (5800m)

We have a short, steep climb up to High camp, but we will take it very slowly so that we allow for the altitude gain. At 5,800 m (19,025ft), high camp is nestled behind a large rock outcrop. We will arrive here by lunch and spend the afternoon relaxing and further acclimatizing. We make preparation for the next morning to get to the summit.  

Day-16: Summit Mera Peak (6,654 m)

Today we climb to the summit of Mera Peak at 21,830 ft from where the views of Pumori (7,161 m) Lhotse (8,516 m), Makalu (8,463 m), Lobuche (6,145 m) Cho Oyu (8,201 m) are spectacular. We will depart Mera high camp before dawn. The climb up to the higher northern summit is straight forward, but it takes 6-7 hours. The reward is one of the world's most spectacular mountain views, including Everest and Lhotse just to the north, Cho Oyu to the northwest, and Kanchenjunga and Makalu to the east. We then make our way down to the Hongu Valley and camp for the night. 

Day-17: Hongu Valley

We head up into the upper yak pastures of this incredibly remote valley. The giant flanks of Chamlang dominate on our left, and the spire of Baruntse comes into view beyond. The terrain is remarkably barren with a wide valley floor.

Day-18: Panch Pokhari - 5400m.

We pass beneath the giant west face of Chamlang we follow the Hongu Khola and finally the Hongu Glacier to the holy site of Panch Pokhri (five lakes). Camp.

Day-19: A rest day.

The guides and Sherpas ascend the Amphu Lapcha to establish fixed lines and prepare the pass for tomorrow's crossing.

Day-20: Amphu Lapcha Crosssing - Chukkung.

This is a long technically difficult trek. Starting from the south base of Amphu Lapcha, we start an early morning climb. The climb involves steep sections on rock and ice. It is better to tackle the pass early in the morning when the snow is stable. We use climbing ropes wherever necessary. The last sections to climb to Amphu Lapcha winds up through snow shelves. On the other side, a steep descent awaits to be endeavored on fixed lines leading down to the moraine. We then continue down the Imja valley on the other side to the small village of Chukkung.

Day-21: Deboche 3710m

Our descent down the valley will be long as we ascend and descend over small passes Dingboche to the main Khumbu Valley, through the village of Pangboche to tonights stop at Deboche.

Day-22: Namche Bazaar (3440m).

We then climb up to Tengboche where we stop for a visit to the Monastery and then descend to Pungi Tanga and climb up to Namche Bazaar.

Day-23:Lukla

Our final days trekking following the Dudh Khosi mostly downhill but with a last climb up to Lukla. We say goodbye to our support crew in traditional style. Overnight Lodge.

Day-24:Flight: Lukla (2,840m) - Kathmandu (1,310m).

Hotel Overnight (B)

Day-25:

Free at leisure

Day-26

Final Departure.

End of services

What's Included

Price includes

Airport transfers by private vehicle
Thamel Eco Resort in Kathmandu, twin sharing with breakfast
Kathmandu sightseeing tour, entrance fees, guide, private transportation
TIMS
Flights: Kathmandu to Lukla to Kathmandu
Everest NP entrance fees
Teahouse trek arrangement (staying in lodges)
Breakfast, lunch and dinner on trek (we do not restrict the orders) Meals include coffee or tea but not soft drinks, beer, milo etc
Guide and porter (s) on trek; their wages, insurance and expenses
Island peak permit
Climbing Sherpa guide
Main ropes
Welcome dinner with live Nepali cultural show
Duffel bag on trek
 

Price Excludes

International flights, departure taxes and any excess baggage charges.
Mandatory travel and medical insurance
Tips, baggage and porterage
Expenses of a personal nature such as bottled drinks, mineral water, morning and afternoon teas etc laundry etc.
Meals while staying at the hotels in Kathmandu (only breakfast is included along with accommodation).
Extra expenses and/of additional time caused due to unexpected events (such a flight delays, porterage because of land slides and other natural events.)
Entry Visa $40
Rescue and evacuation
Climbing gear
Tips and gratuities
Costs incurred for returning to the hotel earlier than expected (From $35 per night)
Single supplements if applicable
Cost for giving up  (and any unused portions which are not refundable), additional hotel accommodation in Kathmandu as a result or costs incurred for changing the itinerary, if applicable, extra costs incurred for landslides and delays beyond our control etc.

Mera Peak Profile Map

Mera Peak Climb Profile Map

Trip Extension Ideas

 Island Peak
Extend your trek after crossing the difficult Amphu Lapcha Pass and then climb Island peak and/or Everest Base .
Mera Peak Amphu Lapcha query


Book your Mera Peak Climb
Trekking Peaks in Nepal
Island Peak is lower than Mera Peak but in terms of technical work, is more difficult to climb. However, the trek TO Island Peak is easier than the Mera Peak trek.

Island Peak is 6160m.
 Island Peak Itinerary

Other Treks in Nepal
 17 days
 Hike from Lukla
  Altitude of 5495m
  A more popular trekking route
  Wonderful mix of culture and scenery
  Breathtaking views of Everest and surrounding peaks
  Same ascent and descent route
  Easily combined with Island Peak
Everest Base Camp Itinerary
 15 days
 Hike from Nayapul
 Altitude of 4130m
 Less steep than Everest base trek
 Lower average altitude than base camp Everest
 Several route options
 Choice of base camp or circuit trek
 Stunning expansive mountain vistas
Annapurna Base Camp Itinerary
 23 days
  Trek from Lukla
  Altitude of 5495m
  Less busy than base camp for the first 7 days
  Steeper and more challenging passes than Everest Base
  Breathtaking Gokyo Lakes
  Different approach to base camp Everest
  Dramatically contrasting scenery and more of a circuit trek
Everest Gokyo Lakes Trek Itinerary
 23 days
  Start hiking from Beni
  Altitude of 5360m
  Very remote with few permanent settlements
  Extended strenuous trek
  Challenging mountain passes
  Snow and ice sections
  Dramatically contrasting scenery
Dhaulagiri Trek Itinerary
 10 days
  Start hiking from Naya Pul
  Altitude of 3200m
  Treks along a well populated route
  Expect steep sections and many stairs
  Wonderful variations of scenery, forests and mountain views
  Trek in part of the Annapurna region
  Accommodation in lodges
Poon Hill Trek Itinerary
10 days
  Start point from Kathmandu and Syabru Beshi
  Altitude of 3300m
  Expect steep sections and long treks
  Gives you a great insight into local cultures of the Tamang people
  Wonderful scenery, forests and mountain views
  Trek in part of the Langtang Region
  Accommodation in home stays and lodges
Tamang Cultural Trek Itinerary

Other treks nearby
 In Tibet there are options such as Mt Kailash, the Kharta Valley Trek or Everest Advanced Base Camp Trek.  In Bhutan, there is everything from the Laya Ghasa Trek or Dagala Lakes, to the long and difficult Snowman Trek
 

Frequently Asked Questions